Yesterday 11:28 pm
*GHETTOBLASTER » 37 minutes ago » wrote: ↑ How high up in a 120 foot Douglas Fir would you set the tie off point...?
The closest tie off point at the other end of the rope is a similar sized tree 200 feet away.
For extra power and stability another pull rope could be sent to another tree that's about 30 degrees from the other.
I don't think one of those trees could be pulled over..it rarely happens naturally with them during storms.
Looks like I'd need 400 feet of rope at whatever that would cost per foot.
The one I referenced is 18,000 lbs tensile 200 feet long. It's my go-to.
I'm completely self-taught and trial & error battle worn.
Learning proper v-notch and hinging techniques are important the bigger the tree gets.
Once they're tied off and you begin to cut, you really can't change your mind. Committed to angles and gravity at that point.
I tie off as high as possible of course. 12-14 ft. up is usually plenty if you can fell the tree sort of in a direction favorable to its natural lean.
The arbor rope can pull it "backward" some.
I have done that with my truck 170 away, pulled tight, cut the wedge and watched the tree bend considerably toward the pull. Then go move the truck 20 feet further to re-tighten the pull. Then finish the cut.
When you get the hinge right the pull doesn't have to be exactly line line with the fall zone. It will pretty much fall where the hinge tells it to fall. The rope quits helping about when you yell "timber!"
Hint: You can angle the hinge a little to help aim the fall too. If the hinge is level it will fall quite predictably in a given direction. Sometimes there's stuff in the way of logistics of your escape route (for example) and can force a less-then-perfect cut. One way you can educate yourself a bit before you cut stupid is with a drinking straw. Bend it on an angle and that will inform you how your hinge cut will behave,
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